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Reflected back at me, I appear to be wearing enormous golden pantaloons, perceptible only to me. Kids play in a water feature pretending to be ocean creatures, while in the next room rests a speaking vegetable in a display case, alongside a towering mound of bedding. It embodies the universe of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), among the 1800s most beloved storytellers. I'm visiting Odense, on the island of the island of Fyn in the southern region of the Danish kingdom, to discover the writer's timeless impact in his birthplace 150 years after his passing, and to find a handful of fairytales of my own.

The Cultural Center: The Andersen Museum

The H.C. Andersen Museum is the city’s exhibition space honoring the writer, incorporating his childhood house. A museum representative states that in earlier iterations of the museum there was scant attention on his fairytales. Andersen's biography was studied, but The Little Mermaid were absent. For guests who travel to this place in search of fairytale wonder, it was not quite enough.

The renovation of downtown Odense, rerouting a major road, made it possible to reconsider how the city’s most famous son could be honored. An international design contest gave the architects from Japan the renowned designers the contract, with the curators’ new approach at the heart of the layout. The unique timber-clad museum with interlinked spiralling spaces opened to significant attention in 2021. “Our goal was to design an environment where we move beyond simply describing the writer, but we talk like the storyteller: with comedy, satire and outlook,” explains the curator. The outdoor spaces take this approach: “This is a landscape for strollers and for large beings, it's created to make you feel small,” he notes, a challenge realized by thoughtful gardening, playing with height, size and multiple meandering routes in a deceptively small space.

The Writer's Legacy

The author penned multiple personal accounts and frequently contradicted himself. The exhibition takes this approach seriously; often the perspectives of his friends or snippets of written messages are presented to subtly challenge the his narrative of events. “The writer is the storyteller, but he’s not reliable,” says the expert. The outcome is a fascinating rapid journey of the author's biography and work, thinking patterns and best-loved stories. It’s provocative and whimsical, for grown-ups and kids, with a extra underground imaginary world, Ville Vau, for the smallest guests.

Visiting the Town

Back in the actual city, the small city of the municipality is picturesque, with cobbled streets and historic timber buildings painted in vibrant hues. The author's presence is all around: the traffic lights display the author with his signature formal headwear, bronze footmarks provide a free pedestrian route, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Every August this focus culminates with the regular storytelling event, which marks the his influence through creativity, performance, drama and musical performances.

Recently, the multi-day event had 500 shows, many were without charge. While visiting the city, I come across painted stilt-walkers, fantastical beings and an author double sharing tales. I listen to contemporary performances and witness an incredible nocturnal display featuring graceful performers coming down from the city building and suspended from a crane. Still to come during the season are presentations, hands-on activities and, expanding the narrative tradition past the author, the city’s regular Magic Days festival.

All good magical places require a castle, and this region boasts 123 castles and estates across the island

Biking Adventures

Similar to other Danish regions, bikes are the best way to get about in the city and a “bike path” meanders through the downtown area. Starting at my accommodation, I cycle to the free port-side aquatic facility, then beyond the city for a circuit around the nearby islet, a compact territory connected by causeway to the larger island. City residents picnic here in the evening, or appreciate a quiet hour angling, water sports or bathing.

Back in town, I visit the themed restaurant, where the food selection is based on author-inspired concepts and stories. The poem the patriotic piece is featured at the restaurant, and owner the restaurateur shares excerpts, presented in English, as he introduces the meal. Such encounters commonplace in my visit, the fynbo love a yarn and it appears storytelling is always offered here.

Manor House Visits

Every excellent enchanted locations need a fortress, and this region boasts numerous historic homes and manor houses throughout the region. Taking day trips from Odense, I explore Egeskov Palace, Europe’s finely maintained moated palace. Although large sections are available for tours, Egeskov is also the personal dwelling of the noble family and his spouse, Princess Alexandra zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg. I contemplate if she can feel a tiny vegetable through a pile of {mattresses